Sunday, 30 September 2012

Forest fires ravage beautiful Chulilla. More news....

Hey!
Carrying straight on from yesterday......the following morning I got up before day break to go to the top of the highest spot around....near us, anyway..... there's a track to the top which is almost drivable, so at 5.30am on the 24th I got up, drove halfway up the track, and then after that it was walking the steepest part, torch in hand, cameras and tripod on my back.  The wind was still howling and as I neared the top and became more exposed the wind became ever more vicious.

When I finally made it to the top I could see the fires still blazing, further away from me now, much further - which I guess was a relief in itself, but not much of one - because the flames were surely now engulfing Pedralba to the south and the ravines and valleys around Chulilla to the north.

The TV later said that Pedralba had also been evacuated and the pictures showed some burned out houses and cars.  Terrible scenes!  One rather poignant scene was of a young guy, 30ish, who'd invested in bees to make some money but also to help the environment.  He lost everything and was shown surveying the charred remains of his hives.

Okay, so no-one died, and in the scale of things the loss of few beehives is not a major disaster and maybe that's true.  But I wouldn't have liked it to have been me!  Many others lost houses, businesses, crops and much, much more.  Perhaps the only good news, so far as I know, no-one died.

Small mercies, eh?

So, back on the mountain I surveyed the scene.  Everywhere was very smoky and that obscured the view a lot, but by way of comparison I had actually been to this very spot the evening before the fire had started and so I knew that from where I stood normally I could see, even on a hazy day, at least 30kms.  But today, no!  The sun was not even beginning to show and I should have been able to see the lights of many of the local pueblos (Figure 1.) but as it was I could barely see fifth of that distance (Figure 2.)



Figure 1.  Shot the evening before the fire started you can see clearly the lights of Lliria and Benisano at the top of the scene.  It had been hot, 35 plus, that day and it was hazy.  On a clear day (for reference purposes!) you can see the city, harbour and ocean in detail.  The stripe of white down the middle is the traffic on the CV35, the main highway to Valencia.  In the foreground to the right of the CV35 are the lights of Domeno.


Figure 2.  I have shifted the camera angle and I am also taking a much wider look here but the view is basically the same.   On the right now is the CV35 withe lights of Domeno visible and on the right are the approaching fires.  Everything beyond was not visible.

As the sky started to brighten I could see that the reason for the obscured view was as I had feared.  It was all smoke (Figures 2, 3 & 4.) from one side of the plain to the other.  As it rose the fires were even tinting the smoke red.  At first I thought it was the sun, but it didn't appear for another half an hour so it couldn't have been.


Figure 3.  The same camera angle as before.


Figure 4.  On the left here is Casinos, the nearest pueblo to us on the way into the city.  On the left the eerie red smoke cloud hangs above Domeno.


Figure 5.  The cloud went high enough to cause the approach routes to the city airport to be altered temporarily.

To the north the fires had not advanced as far but still sent up its fair share of the smoke.  It was clear now that he area surrounding Chulilla was burning (Figure 6.) with the smoke being swept along by the wind with fast moving clouds above (Figure 7.)


Figure 6.  A single plume of smoke rises from Chulilla and spreads itself across the plain.


Figure 7.  As the sun finally rose the smoke looked like low lying clouds except that I could smell the burning even from where I was!

I left the mountain top with a heavy heart.  I needed to go and see if things were as bad I imagined.  I wasn't hopeful as I plodded back down the track for 'me brekky'.  I just had to cross everything and hope.

An hour or so after eating I set off again with the trouble and strife navigating!  Luckily I knew where we were going so, Phew!, that was a relief!! - It's important to retain a sense of humour in troubled times, and I'd demonstrated my sense of humour perfectly by allowing the Missus along!!  (Only joking baby if you read this!  No violence - please!)

Seriously now - We headed off down the road towards Villar del Arzobispo, then on to Llosa del Obispo.  I knew that by now all the approach roads to Chulilla would be closed down so we wouldn't be able to get very close.  And so it proved....as we went through Llosa the through-road was blocked off by the Guardia.  There were scores of people there watching as helicopters dumped load after load of water as the flames chewed up the mountains surrounding Chulilla (Figures 8-13.).


Figure 8.  This flat-topped mountain, a famed place locally to watch the sunset, was completely black.


Figure 9.  The fires were now charging down the lower slopes of the mountain.


Figure 10.  It was horrible to watch.  Normally I cycle past where the road block is and down the side of the valley to sweep round where the fires now blazed and into the back of Chulilla the opposite side of the black mountain.


Figure 11.  Helipcopters kept dropping their cargo but the effect seemed little from this distance.  However, now, having been down that road (tomorrows blog) I can see that I was wrong.  The fire made it as far as the road in odd places but in the main the helicopters appear to have arrested the fires before they could get close to the road and the town itself.


Figure 12.  1.- Just round where the arrow indicates lies the pueblo of Chulilla.
2.- The Chulilla ravine where we go to swim.  Absolutely beautiful and very close to the flames.
3.-  The top of the next mountain after Chulilla was blackened as well.  There is a small mountain pass over there that leads down to Sot de Chera which the TV had said was also in danger.  I have yet to see for myself.


Figure 13.  A tragedy to behold.

Back tomorrow with more.  See ya!

Friday, 28 September 2012

Forest fires ravage beautiful Chulilla - Thousands more hectares destroyed.

Hiya!
I've been missing for a while, but no apologies.......some things are more pressing than writing a blog!

And straight away it's back to the same old story I'm afraid.  During the afternoon of the 23rd my neighbour pottering about on his roof called my attention to a huge pillar of smoke rising up behind our houses (Figure 1.) and as you can see from the photo it looked like it was just the other side of the hill!  'Bloody hell!,' I thought, 'not again!'

I jumped on my bike immediately and set off to investigate.  The Poniente, the name given to the prevailing wind, had been blowing exceptionally strongly all day, and cycling into that wind to get in a position where I could see the fire was like riding with the brakes on, but within minutes it became obvious to me that the fire was farther away than I had originally thought.  Phew!  But then....shit....I could see the mountains opposite me, looking south-east, some 7 or 8kms away, were aflame, and even as I watched the wind was whipping the fire up, egging it on to take a bite of the next tree, and the next, and the next.  But strangely the fire wasn't only progressing in the direction of the wind - almost due south - but was also working its way northwards so that thsoe flames were heading almost directly towards the holiest of holies - Chulilla.

Chulilla is one of the village gems locally, a charming pueblo tucked away in a picture postcard ravine and what's more, almost the last remaining of my favourite cycling haunts that had not been burned to a crisp this summer!  I couldn't believe it.  I went back home feeling somewhat relieved that the fire was the other side of the highway and would probably not be able to make the jump across, but at the same time I was sick at the destruction that would undoubtedly follow in the days to come.  I wish I could say that that feeling had been misguided, but sadly it wasn't.


Figure 1.  The time was 5.26pm on the 23rd.  And the house you can see is my neighbours.


Figure 2.  Convoys of emergency vehicles rolled past...hundreds of them.....


Figure 3. .....as others have finished for the night and head off home.

Later that night after we'd eaten we jumped in the car and set off to see how things were going.  It was about 11 when we parked up the first time on the lower slopes of a small mountain behind our neighbours house.  he red glow had been plainly visible from our house so as walked up to gain a better prespective I feared the worst.

The wind was still howling and I had to literally stand on the feel of my tripod to keep it from blowing over - I kid you not!  As we had made the short climb I had not looked behind me deliberately, as if not looking might make it not so bad when I eventually did look.  But I don't think it worked, because when I turned round the devastation was immense.  

Standing a few hundred meters further away than I had been earlier on my bike I still couldn't fit all the fires into a single 18mm camera shot!  Instead of the single fire I'd seen some four hours earlier, I now saw a string of fires that stretched out over 11kms of mountain and ridge tops.  

To the south, the fires had moved rapidly having been fanned by the winds and appeared to be descending on the areas around Bugarra, Gestalgar and maybe Pedralba, all beautiful, all rich in agriculture and also peppered with the residences of many ex-pats, some of whom I know (Figures 4 & 5.).  It was unreal how far the fires had moved, the lives it must have already destroyed.  I just turned away to look in the opposite direction.  It's hard to know what to think a those times.


Figure 4.  These fires were furthest away from where we stood, maybe 8 or 9kms.  To the naked eye the flames were clearly visible but to capture it with camera I had to use a long exposure, hence the furry fires!  These flames appeared to be moving on Domeno.


Figure 5.  This line of fire appeared to be moving on Bugarra, Gestalgar and Pedralba.

But it was no better to the north.  The fires there had not moved so rapidly but they were definitely very, very close to Chulilla if not on top of it (Figure 6.) - I later found out that the pueblo had already been evacuated and was in the same school where the evacuees from the previous fires had been, the college in Villar del Arzobispo only 3 kms to my right as I stood.  The volunteers there deserve medals!





Figure 6.  Chulilla was burning as the moon shone above.  I just hoped no-one was hurt.


This fire was closest to us and so appeared to burn the brightest, though my heart was descending into darkness.  Chulilla and perhaps Sot de Chera, two of the most beautiful places I have ever seen were being altered forever before my eyes.  And not, most certainly not in a good way.

More tomorrow.