The closest village to where I live is Villar del Arzobispo, a tiny pueblo a few kilometers away. This weekend Villar held its annual running of the bulls fiesta and I went down to take a look. On Saturday evening it all started very late, which is quite normal for Spain, but not for me!! By 1am I was flagging and the party had just begun! And I'd forgotten the camera anyway, which was a shame because the night running is slightly more spectacular due to the fact that they tie fire brands to the bulls horns to enrage it and spice up the show for the spectators! Don't get me wrong, it's cruel, it's almost medieval and it's 100% Spanish, but it is still spectacular, exciting and fun!
This is the time of the year for the bull runnings all over the country. Last week it was in Casinos (the other pueblo close to me) and this week it was Villar. Whilst I missed it in Casinos, I was determined to see what it was all about in Villar, so this morning, armed with cameras I ventured into Villar again for a further peek.
The crowds were already gathering and I wandered in (it's all free) and found myself a suitable spot to wait. The bulls are kept in shipping containers before they are released one at time for the entertainment of the waiting crowd. You can hear the bulls frustration before the doors are opened as the containers jump and groan as the bulls inside take their tempers out on their steel cage.
When first released some charge around madly whilst others take a moment or two to get their bearings before rising to the promptings of the numerous 'wanabe' Toreadores who wave t-shirts, flags and friends in front of the enraged animals. At night time, to improve the spectacle, they tie rags soaked in oil to the horns and then set them alight and then proceed to torment the unfortunate animal (see Figs 1-4)!
Figure 1. These shots were taken in Casinos 2 years ago. This first one is the fixing of the apparatus that is then set alight. Pulling the tail seems to be the standard method of control!
Figure 2. The crowd bait the animal.
Figure 3. Those daring (or stupid?) enough to confront the bull have various heavy contraptions behind they can shelter.
Figure 4. Here you can see the apparatus that is aflame. In Villar last night it appeared to be just cloth tied to the horns and nothing quite as elaborate as this.
Of course bull running and bullfighting are quintessentially Spanish and conjure up Hemingway-esque romantic notions of masculinity, Latin culture and ancient battles of man against beast. But is it right in the 21st Century? Is it all not a bit medieval, cruel and out-dated? The Spanish argue, of course, that it is an essential part of their culture and heritage, like Yorkshire pud and cricket are for the Brits, or perhaps like owning a gun is for Texans. But does that make it right?
In Gandia last week bullfighting was exhumed after 25 years and was accompanied by demonstrations against the reestablishment of this Spanish main course. Animal rights activists were up in arms and in principal I agree. But the Spanish are nothing but controversial, and demonstrations organised by, what were primarily English-speaking organisations, will be unlikely to lead to any change in attitude or policy. As well as being anti-change, highly stubborn and pragmatic in the extreme, the Spanish are very practical and are just as likely to say, 'if you don't like it, then don't live here,' as they are to listen!
Attitudes are changing here but the Latin temperament resists change with a stubbornness that borders on futility sometimes. What the rest of the world thinks is an irrelevance. It will change when the Spanish deem it can be so and not before!
I'm not sure how I feel about it all. It is undoubtedly cruel, but in most places they no longer kill the animals afterwards - which I guess is something of a step forward - and in others it has been banned altogether. But you speak to those involved and they will tell of the industry behind the tradition. The people that it keeps in work breeding, looking after and feeding the animals which, they argue, have a far better life than most cattle, getting the best grain, the best grass and the best veterinary care - and this we call animal cruelty? They don't think so!
Figure 5. The bull is released to run in the streets......
Figure 6. ......as young guys move in to show their bravery and tempt the bull to charge.....
Figure 7. .....which invariably it does.......
Figure 8. .....with such force that the heavy wooden protectors can be lifted right off the ground!
In the short time I have been living in Spain I have learned that public opinion only matters to the Spanish if it is Spanish public opinion. They don't care a jot for the opinions of those outside their borders and why should they? But for me, this 'head in the sand' approach is fundamental to many of the problems that the Spanish and Spain are feeling at the moment. Spain is supposed to be part of the EU, but is in my experience, more a part of Africa than it ever will be a part of Europe.
I have talked on this blog before about the problems of the black economy here which are, in my humble opinion, a large part of the financial difficulties that have this country on the economic rack right now. Here, as with the bullfighting, this is a quintessentially Spanish problem (as it is also in Greece) that the Spanish themselves show no inclination whatsoever to wish to change. It's just the way it is and what the EU and the rest of the world think just doesn't matter, despite the lip-service Rajoy might pay this on the TV and in Brussels. It's not going to change till the Spanish wish it to be changed. And right now they see no reason why things should change - especially when the Germans keep coughing up the billions to fund the atrociously inefficient Spanish banks and (highly corruptible?) governments - when many Spanish still have a lifestyle that most of the world would be jealous of, whether that lifestyle be a tax-paying legal one or black economy, benefit-receiving one! The upshot is the same. No change!
Only things are changing. The young (by which I mean the under-30's) are suffering like no Spanish have suffered in living memory. They are leaving University with good degrees and absolutely no hope whatsoever of gaining a (legal) job, probably ever! So they are leaving in droves for the more financially secure shores of Germany, Switzerland, England, the USA and elsewhere. If the Spanish economy is bad now, it will be much worse in 10 years time because there will be no new businesses, no innovation, no new industries and (I'm sure) still no jobs! And what's more, what jobs there will be will be left vacant because there will no young people to fill them. This is not just a brain drain it is a full blown generation drain and one from which, I fear, Spain will never recover.
As much as it hurts, the Spanish have got to sit up and take notice of what the world thinks. Isolated as they are on the Iberian peninsula with only the Portuguese for company (who are experiencing remarkably similar problems) they are a part of the EU and the rest of the world. Opinions do matter. And things must change. The cotton wool in the ears approach has outlived its' usefulness and if Spain doesn't make substantial change, and quickly, then things will only get worse. Far worse!
Trying to get things done here, be it official papers or just seeing someone at your bank, is a lesson in futility. Business-wise Spain is in the 19th Century and technology-wise in the 20th. It defies belief that the Spanish people cannot see things as they are and cry out for things to change. But they don't. They just keep their heads firmly buried in the sand and hope that the storm passes by overhead without too much damage being caused.
How blind can one be?
As for me, I love Spain. I love the food, I love the people, I love the country, but I deplore the system. If I could wish for anything for Spain it would be that they sit up and listen, kick out the current system that does not work in any way. Make it much easier to start new businesses - offer incentives rather than taxing the life out of any new enterprise - and put an end to the black market once and for all. It just doesn't work! Start to embrace Spain's foreign contingent, rather than punishing them for not being born in the peninsula. We are here to stay and we want to work, you just have give us the opportunity. We've already invested heavily in the country (in property mostly) and would welcome the chance to work, pay taxes and contribute further, if only the system would give us the chance. These things would be a good starting point and from there going forward might be a whole lot easier.
I'm not quite sure how I went from bull running to inciting rebellion, but somehow I did and, after a quick re-read, I'm glad that I did. If you have any thoughts on this matter please leave your comments below...I am interested in public opinion and want to know what YOU think!
Back soon
P XX
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